WHAT WE ATE
- Sapporo Miso Ramen [Western Fermentation × Japanese Fermentation] – 75/100, Tokyo, 26 October 2025
Zweiter Läden is the Tokyo offshoot of Osaka’s well-known KÜCHE, helmed by an ex-Italian chef who channels European technique into unmistakably Japanese bowls. The shop name is German for “second store,” and the brand has already picked up nods like third place at New York JAPAN FES and a Ramen TRY new-shop commendation—useful context for why they’ve been invited to the “all-new creations” lineup at Dai Tsukemen Haku 2025. Expect a festival-only concept that leans craft and imagination rather than a straight lift of the regular shop menu.
For readers planning a route through Okubo Park, note that this year’s event runs 8 Oct–24 Nov 2025 and features 100-plus vendors debuting original bowls; Zweiter Läden is on the official roster. If you’re tracking boundary-pushing ramen in Tokyo, this one sits neatly at the intersection of technique, playfulness, and provenance—worth a stop without spoiling the surprise.
Zweiter Laden Sapporo Miso Ramen [Western Fermentation × Japanese Fermentation]: 75/100
Noodle: 35/35
The noodles are medium-thick, rounded, and straight, cooked to a medium softness that works surprisingly well with the soup’s rich body. There’s a pleasant doughiness in the texture—soft but structured—that gives each bite a subtle resilience. What stands out most is the earthy sweetness woven into the noodles themselves, a depth that feels intentional and thoughtfully paired with the miso broth. It bridges the flavours of noodle and soup seamlessly, reinforcing the idea that fermentation, when done right, creates harmony rather than contrast.
Soup: 30/35
The bowl opens savoury, with a quick surge of umami that gradually reveals its sweetness. The body of the soup carries a rich, mellow depth that feels fermented yet approachable, layered with miso complexity and an understated warmth of spice near the finish. There’s an almost architectural sense of layering here—three distinct sweetnesses that play off one another: the noodle’s natural grain sweetness, the miso’s deep fermented sweetness, and the meat’s savoury-sweet undertone. Together, they form a broth that feels alive, evolving as you eat. It’s not the most refined miso base, but it’s undeniably engaging in how it ties texture and taste together.
Meat: 20/20
The minced pork is the hidden gem of this bowl. Soft, springy, and tender, it’s seasoned with a sweetness that feels deliberate, not excessive. The flavour is rounded with a faint savoury undertone that grounds the richness of the broth. Its fluffy, juicy texture ensures it integrates smoothly into each mouthful, reinforcing the “fermentation meets comfort” idea that the shop is clearly exploring.
Toppings: 0/10
Unfortunately, the supporting cast doesn’t hold up. It’s a missed opportunity; a bowl this thoughtful in its broth deserves toppings that carry equal intent.
- The bean sprouts—just stems without heads or roots—add some freshness but little more.
- The greens, sparse and wilted, contribute neither colour nor lift, hinting at fatigue from a long festival day.
- The generous pork back fat does give the bowl heft, but it also pushes the richness a little too far, tipping the balance toward greasy.
DISCLAIMER
One man’s meat is another man’s poison.
Find out more about our palettes and how we evaluate our ramen here. 😉
