WHAT WE ATE
- 尾道らーめん / Onomichi Ramen: 80/100, Onomichi, 7 August 2025
- 澄まし潮らーめん / Sumashi Shio Ramen: 85/100, Onomichi, 7 August 2025
DENYASU Ramen, located just about a 10-minute walk from Onomichi Station in Hiroshima, offers a low-profile but authentic take on regional favorites. At its core, the house specialty is an Onomichi-style ramen—a clear, soy-based bowl built with dashi from local Seto Inland Sea niboshi (small dried sardines), topped with flat, springy noodles and scattered pork back fat for texture and depth. Alongside this, their shio ramen emphasizes shellfish and seabream broth, leaning delicate yet satisfying, with seared chashu and minimalistic garnishes on clear display.
With only a handful of counter seats and an unassuming side-street location, DENYASU quietly invites ramen fans to experience Onomichi’s dual legacy: the savory tradition of its signature soy-and-fat shorthand, and the lighter, seafood-forward expression of shio. Perfect for those curious about the region’s breadth in a single visit.
尾道らーめん / Onomichi Ramen: 85/100
Noodle: 35/35
The noodles here are medium-thin, straight, and distinctly handmade. You’ll notice brown specks woven into the dough—a visual hint at a whole grain wheat blend. Served al dente, they offer a satisfyingly snappy bite, with a texture that leans slightly towards the low-hydration end of the spectrum.
Taste-wise, they carry a smooth, nutty wheat flavour that complements the broth well without overpowering it. The mouthfeel is clean, with just enough resistance to hold up to the lighter broth, making them a solid base for this traditional Onomichi-style bowl.
Soup: 30/35
This shoyu broth starts mellow, opening with a soft soy aroma that isn’t too sharp. The body is lifted by a noticeable layer of chicken oil, which gives it roundness and warmth without feeling greasy. Toward the end, there’s a subtle flicker of bitterness from the soy sauce—it comes and goes quickly, keeping the finish clean.
While this isn’t a complex or layered broth by most standards, the elegance lies in its restraint. The balance between the shoyu and the underlying seafood sweetness reflects a quiet confidence. It’s minimalism done right.
Meat: 10/20
A single thin slice of chashu accompanies the bowl. It’s mostly lean, with hardly any visible fat, and carries a texture that borders on dry. There’s a bit of chew to it—nothing unpleasant, but definitely a firmer bite than what you’d find in more modern styles.
Flavour-wise, it’s lightly marinated and straightforward. This is the kind of chashu that feels nostalgic—something you’d expect from a family-run shop that’s been around for decades, not engineered for wow-factor but anchored in tradition.
Other Toppings: 10/10
- Bamboo shoots: Soft yet crunchy, with a delicate sweetness that blends nicely with the broth.
- Floating pork back fat: Minced slightly coarser than usual. These little nuggets of fat don’t just dissolve—they melt slowly, releasing rich, meaty bursts into the soup.
- Fresh negi: Brightens the bowl with just the right amount of piquancy, offering contrast without disrupting the balance.
Summary
This bowl of Onomichi ramen doesn’t try to do too much—and that’s precisely its strength. The harmony between broth, oil, and noodle is finely tuned. While the chashu may not be the standout, everything else works together seamlessly. It’s a quiet kind of satisfying.
Personally, I found this more attractive than the one from Maruboshi.
澄まし潮らーめん / Sumashi Shio Ramen: 80/100
Noodle: 35/35
The same noodles are used here as in the Onomichi ramen—medium-thin, straight, and house-made, flecked with brown specks that suggest a whole grain wheat blend. Served al dente, they deliver a nice, snappy bite with a clean, low-hydration mouthfeel.
What sets them apart is the flavour: a smooth, nutty wheat taste that lingers gently. These noodles hold their own even in a lighter broth, offering not just structure but also a quiet richness that complements the dish’s clean profile. Perfectly done.
Soup: 25/35
The broth opens with a very mellow seafood-forward aroma, far more oceanic than your usual shio. As it settles, there’s a smooth warmth to the body that feels almost therapeutic—gentle, balanced, and comforting without being flat.
A subtle ginger-like note emerges at the finish—warming rather than spicy—and carries a slight sweetness. While the soup’s transitions aren’t particularly dynamic, there’s an ephemeral quality to it: delicate layers that rise and fade like ocean waves. The overall impression is crisp and clean, with a sweetness that evokes the sea more than any land-based stock. It’s quiet, but memorable.
Meat: 10/20
The same chashu appears here—thinly sliced, lean, with hardly any fat. Texture leans slightly tough and borders on dry, giving it a firmer chew.
The taste is meaty and lightly marinated, with no bells and whistles. While not the highlight, it feels nostalgic—an old-school style of chashu that doesn’t try to impress, just sits quietly in the bowl like it belongs.
Other Toppings: 10/10
- Bamboo shoots: Soft-crunchy with a tender bite and subtle sweetness. Well-executed.
- Shiranegi: Offers aromatic piquancy and helps lift the lighter broth slightly.
- Crispy sea bream skin: This was the standout. A large, golden-crisp piece that shatters beautifully upon bite. The sweet, oceanic richness of the bream lingers momentarily and fills the mouth—rich, oily, and deeply satisfying. It brings a bold contrast to an otherwise subtle bowl.
Summary
This bowl doesn’t shout. It hums—quietly, confidently. The broth is light but purposeful, the noodles are impeccable, and that deep-fried sea bream skin is an unexpected delight that elevates the entire experience. Not for those chasing intensity, but for those who appreciate restraint, this one delivers.
DISCLAIMER
One man’s meat is another man’s poison.
Find out more about our palettes and how we evaluate our ramen here. 😉
