Konjiki Hototogisu | Singapore | 85/100

WHAT WE ATE

• Shoyu Hamaguri Soup Ramen, 85/100 (Chijmes, 1 Sep 2022)

When looking for a ramen experience in Singapore that steps away from the conventional, Konjiki Hototogisu (金色不如帰) stands as a significant entry point. Founded in Tokyo by Chef Atsushi Yamamoto, the brand is globally recognized for its unconventional approach to broth, having secured a Michelin Star for several consecutive years in the Tokyo guide. Unlike the heavy, cream-laden pork broths that dominate the local landscape, this establishment is notable for pioneering a “Triple Soup” base—a sophisticated fusion of animal and seafood elements that emphasizes clarity and layered aromatics.

A key factor in the store’s distinction is its reliance on Hamaguri clams, a signature ingredient that differentiates its profile from the standard shoyu or tonkotsu found elsewhere. In Singapore, the brand maintains its reputation for culinary innovation by offering outlet-exclusive menus. For instance, specific branches specialize in Oyster or Crab variations, ensuring that each visit offers a distinct perspective on Chef Yamamoto’s philosophy. The noodles also reflect this attention to detail, crafted from Hokkaido whole grain flour to provide a specific texture and nutritional profile that complements the refined broth.

The brand’s commitment to a “no MSG” policy further highlights its focus on extracting pure flavors from high-quality ingredients like black truffle paste and porcini oil. For those interested in the evolution of Japanese ramen in Southeast Asia, exploring how these delicate seafood-forward profiles translate from a tiny eight-seater shop in Shinjuku to the vibrant dining hubs of Singapore provides a fascinating study in modern gastronomy.

Shoyu Hamaguri Soup Ramen: 85/100

Noodle: 30/35

Unlike my previous disappointing experience at the Waterway Point outlet, I was pleasantly surprised by the noodles at the Chijmes location. They were cooked to perfection, achieving a delightful al dente texture. The unique “rawness” and irregular shape of the noodles were more pronounced here, adding to their appeal. The taste and texture were greatly improved, devoid of any clumpy or clay-like qualities. I found myself craving more noodles as I eagerly scraped the bottom of the bowl.

Soup: 30/35

The broth is a delightful blend of clam and shoyu flavors. While the initial clammy taste might be off-putting for some, I discovered a gradual emergence of umami notes accompanied by a subtle woodsy hint from the porcini oil and flakes. It’s worth mentioning that I am not typically a fan of clams and have rarely consumed them in my life. However, I surprisingly enjoyed the broth enough to finish most of it. The only reason I didn’t give the broth a perfect score is that it lacked a bit more complexity. After a while, it became slightly flat, and the fragrance of the Shoyu or Truffle didn’t quite shine through, somewhat overshadowed by the clam flavor.

Meat: 20/20

The toppings included two types of meat. The pork belly was decent, albeit unremarkable. However, the round piece of sous vide chashu stole the show with its sweet and savory marination. Despite being thinly sliced, it boasted a tender texture that complemented the dish perfectly.

Toppings: 5/10

The standout among the toppings was the golden, runny goodness of the egg. While satisfying, the remaining toppings left much to be desired. Although the green onions were present, I felt that more innovative toppings could have been added to enhance the complexity of the broth. It would have been a welcomed addition to have layers of flavor and textures that could complement the overall ramen experience.

Summary

At the Chijmes outlet, the Shoyu Hamaguri Soup Ramen earns a strong 85/100, distinguished largely by its technical execution and a standout protein pairing. While the broth offers a bold, clam-forward profile layered with the woodsy aromatics of porcini oil, it is the sous-vide chashu and the al dente noodles that truly elevate the experience. The noodles, in particular, avoid the common pitfalls of clumping, offering a unique “raw” and irregular texture that keeps you reaching for the bottom of the bowl. Though the toppings, aside from a perfectly runny egg, remain somewhat conventional, the tender, sweet-savory marination of the pork ensures a high-quality finish for any seafood-ramen enthusiast.