WHAT WE ATE
- Salt Ramen with Fish Bone Broth – 75/100, Tokyo, 4 July 2025
A short walk from Shinjuku Station, Menya Kaijin Shinjuku Ten quietly offers something you don’t often find in Tokyo’s ramen scene—a fish-forward broth that leans light but layered. Unlike the usual pork-heavy bowls, this shop builds its ramen around seasonal seafood, creating a clean, umami-rich experience that’s equal parts delicate and unexpected.
If you’re used to bold, punchy ramen, this one might catch you off guard—but in a good way. The setup is simple, the broth changes with the catch of the day, and there’s even a grilled rice ball waiting at the end if you’re the kind who drinks your soup down to the last drop. Definitely worth a stop if you’re curious about where ramen can go when it swims in a different direction.
Salt Ramen with Fish Bone Broth: 75/100
Noodle: 20/35
The noodles are medium thin, curly, and vibrant yellow. Texture-wise, they’re chewy without quite hitting mochi mochi territory. There’s a firm core that gives them a snappy bite, while the slightly stickier exterior tends to cling subtly to your teeth.
According to the menu, these noodles are made with a blend of two wheat types, matured at low temperatures and crafted using charcoal-purified water. The result is a distinctive texture with a natural earthy wheat flavour and a bold eggy note.
That said, the alkaline taste becomes more pronounced the longer the noodles sit in the broth. It starts off manageable but begins to overpower the lighter soup, so it’s worth slurping fast before the balance tips.
Soup: 30/35
The soup here stands out for its ever-changing fish base—made using seasonal fresh fish, and you can even check the wall for what’s gone into your bowl that day. This unpredictability adds a nice layer of intrigue.
Flavour-wise, the broth opens with a gentle umami sweetness before giving way to a savoury body and a warm, gingery undertone. A slight briny tang rounds it off. While the nuances are fleeting, the gentle sweetness lingers and leaves a pleasant impression. The fishiness is kept impressively clean and controlled.
Despite its 7+ brix richness, the soup’s salt level clocks in at only 0.43, making it ultra light. Unfortunately, this delicate balance is easily thrown off—the eggy noodles quickly start leeching into the broth, and by the end of the bowl, that’s all you really taste.
Meat: 15/20
The proteins here are a little unconventional. Instead of your usual chashu, you get two types of meatballs—though they resemble small patties more than classic balls.
Seafood meatball – Soft, tender, with a fluffy, almost spongy texture. Made from minced shrimp and cod, it’s mellow in umami with a gentle savoury head. This one blends nicely into the broth and complements it well.
Chicken meatball – A bit of an acquired taste. Also soft and tender, but firmer and slightly doughier than the seafood version. Minced with chicken cartilage, it adds a crunchy contrast. There’s a light savouriness, but it also carries a distinct, somewhat pungent tang—almost reminiscent of bamboo shoots. Not unpleasant, but definitely divisive.
Topping: 10/10
Toppings are smartly curated here, with five distinct components:
- Shredded leek
- Japanese ginger
- Ginger needles
- Perilla leaves
- Shredded chilli pepper
Each plays a subtle but effective role. The leek and chilli give a gentle kick; the perilla brings a clean, herby brightness. Both types of ginger smooth over any remaining fishiness, keeping the overall flavour lifted and balanced. Nothing flashy, just elegant restraint that works.
Summary: This is a bowl for those who appreciate subtlety and seasonality in ramen. The ever-changing fish broth keeps things fresh, and the topping choices show real thought. But the noodles—while texturally interesting—do clash with the lightness of the soup, muting what could’ve been a more memorable experience. The meatballs offer variety and some surprises, though they may not be for everyone. Worth a try if you’re into lighter, fish-based ramen with a twist—but probably not a go-to if you’re chasing bold, punchy flavours.
DISCLAIMER
One man’s meat is another man’s poison.
Find out more about our palettes and how we evaluate our ramen here. 😉
