WHAT WE ATE
- Classic Shio 經典鹽味 – 100/100, Yuanlin, Changhua, Taiwan, 29 Sep 2026
- Limited Ebi Tori Paitan 限定海老雞白湯 – 95/100, Yuanlin, Changhua, Taiwan, 29 Sep 2026
Tucked inside the retro corridors of the Yuanlin Cinema’s old market complex in Changhua, Yu An Ting (羽庵亭) operates as a hyper-intimate, six-seater ramen bar that defies standard rural expectations. The shop’s secluded footprint under Nanchang Road creates a focused micro-counter atmosphere reminiscent of late-night Tokyo alleyway stalls, where precision take precedence over volume.
The kitchen leans heavily on dual specialisations, crafting dense Tori Paitan (rich chicken bone broth) soups alongside concentrated Gyokai (seafood-pork/poultry hybrid) tsukemen dipping bases. Every component, from the exact emulsion of the poultry fat to the structural bounce of the dipping noodles, reflects a disciplined approach to artisanal, small-batch bowl assembly.
For diners navigating Changhua’s developing craft ramen landscape, Yu An Ting stands out as a dedicated destination for concentrated emulsions and precise dipping formats, rounding out its specialized menu with house-crafted tea puddings and fine-tuned aromatics.
Classic Shio 經典鹽味: 100/100
Noodle: 35/35
Medium-thin and cooked to a precise al dente, these straight strands exhibit an exceptionally clean, snappy resistance upon the first bite. Visible brown specks across the surface denote a deliberate whole wheat blend, which translates directly into a robust, earthy, and nutty flavor profile. The mouthfeel is smooth yet structurally dense, striking an exact balance where the noodle retains its elasticity without absorbing excess moisture or surrendering its firm, tactile chew.
Soup: 35/35
The broth opens with a restrained, clean salinity at the head, establishing immediate clarity without overwhelming the palate. As it transitions into the body, a rich, velvety chicken emulsion unfolds, providing a savory umami core and a surprisingly luxurious creaminess. The finish exits with a gentle, lingering natural sweetness that settles cleanly. Despite its apparent visual simplicity, the soup possesses a subtle, multi-layered complexity. It achieves a delicate, sticky viscosity on the lips while remaining remarkably crisp, balancing its low-salinity profile against a deep poultry backbone.
Meat: 20/20
The bowl features a dual-protein presentation, showcasing two distinct preparations executed with high technical discipline. The rolled chicken chashu, comprised mainly of lean meat wrapped in skin, is sous-vide cooked to a tender, juicy, drunk-chicken-like texture. Its skin transforms into a delicate, jelly-like layer, carrying a clean, fresh, and well-balanced umami seasoning. Complementing this is a large, thinly sliced pork chashu. While the lean portions run slightly firm, the rendered fat sections remain exceptionally soft. A gentle yet prominent aburi char delivers a refined smokiness that enhances the savory depth of the cut without masking its natural pork sweetness.
Other Toppings: 10/10
- Broiled spinach provides a soft, vegetal element, though its standalone flavor remains relatively neutral.
- Brown mushrooms contribute a juicy, woodsy bite that adds textural variance to the bowl.
- Sliced negi delivers a sharp, piquant lift to pierce through the broth’s natural oiliness.
- Diced red onion brings a sweet, juicy crunch that introduces a bright contrast to the poultry baseline.
- The marinated egg features a well-calibrated soak that balances sweetness and salinity, housing a yolk that leans slightly firm while retaining a rich, savory character.
Summary
Executing a world-class Shio broth is arguably the most difficult feat in ramen craft, as the minimalistic framework offers no heavy fats or assertive sauces to hide technical flaws; even minor alkaline leeching from the noodles can ruin the bowl. This preparation stands as a masterclass in delicate equilibrium, where every component enhances the broth’s pristine clarity to earn a perfect score for me.
Limited Ebi Tori Paitan 限定海老雞白湯: 95/100
Noodle: 35/35
Medium-thin and crafted with a whole wheat blend visible through brown specks across the surface, these noodles deliver a firm, snappy resistance despite being ordered soft. The texture remains exceptionally smooth and elastic, providing an earthy, nutty wheat profile with a satisfying density that holds up effortlessly against the rich broth.
Soup: 30/35
A dynamic study in extreme contrasts. The opening head delivers a bold, gritty salinity with an immediate hit of ocean brine and distinct smokiness. As it settles into the body, a sharp initial bitterness transforms into a deep, comforting sweetness. The finish exits on a long, lingering sweet note. What makes this broth remarkable is its play between dualities—it balances heavy creaminess against a crisp, clean lift, while bridging bitter, smoky seafood extraction with a smooth chicken paitan sweetness.
Meat: 20/20
A trio of proteins prepared with meticulous technique to balance the broth’s heavy flavor profile:
- Chicken Chashu: Rolled sous-vide chicken with a high-end drunken chicken mouthfeel. The skin turns delicately jelly-like while the lean core stays remarkably juicy, clean, and balanced.
- Pork Chashu: A large, thin slice featuring a gentle aburi torching that brings out a clear smoky dimension. While the lean sections lean slightly dry and chewy, the fatty edges melt soft and savory.
- Prawn: Fresh and springy with a clean, ocean-sweet snap. A light aburi sear amplifies the sweet crustacean notes with a crisp, smoky edge that cuts right through the paitan base.
Other Toppings: 10/10
- Fresh lime wedge provides a bright, piquant zesty zing that pierces through the broth’s punchier flavour.
- Broiled spinach adds a soft, grounding vegetal element.
- Sliced negi introduces a clean, sharp onion kick.
- Marinated egg features a balanced sweet-savory soak with a slightly firm yolk that retains a pleasing texture.
Summary
This limited bowl is a bold exploration of flavor extremes, masterfully orchestrating smoky, bitter crustacean intensity alongside a velvety, sweet poultry foundation. The contrast between gritty sea brine and rich chicken paitan, punctuated by the citrus pop of fresh lime and exceptional seafood freshness, makes it a uniquely memorable bowl.
DISCLAIMER
One man’s meat is another man’s poison.
Find out more about our palettes and how we evaluate our ramen here. 😉
